I figured I'd save $40 on my 2012 F-150 and grabbed a set of generic ceramics for $25 back in February. By week three they were squealing like a stuck pig and I couldn't get any bite until the pedal was halfway to the floor. Anyone else had cheap pads just fail on them this fast?
I used to swear by semi-metallic pads because I thought ceramics were too soft and didn't bite hard enough. Took my 2014 F-150 out to the mountains near Asheville last October and the semi-metallics started fading bad after 3 hard stops. Swapped to a set of ceramics at 60k miles and the difference in dust alone is crazy. No more orange wheels after a week of driving. Has anyone else here made the switch and felt like they were wrong about something for too long?
Was at Advance Auto Parts in Houston last Tuesday grabbing pads for my F-150. Old guy in line behind me saw what I was buying and just goes "you're gonna warp your rotors with those cheap ceramics." I'd been running those same type pads for like 5 years with no issues. He spent 10 minutes explaining how the heat transfer works different on heavy trucks. Never had anyone call me out like that in a parts store before. Anyone else ever get random advice from a stranger that actually made you rethink your setup?
Last week I was swapping pads on my F-150 in the driveway and remembered how my old man used to rough up new pads with sandpaper before installing them. Did that to a set of cheap ceramics and they've been dead quiet for three days now compared to the last set I just slapped on. Anyone else still do old school stuff like that or am I just being stubborn?
Pulled into my driveway in Phoenix last Saturday after hearing this awful high pitched squeal every time I stopped at a red light. Turned out I had put the shims on wrong during my last pad swap at 45,000 miles. After taking it all apart and greasing the contact points with that CRC brake grease, it's finally silent. Anyone else had the shims flip around on them like that?
I put $80 ceramic pads on my 2013 Civic last March because the auto parts guy swore they'd last 60k miles without noise. By August at 10k miles they started squealing like a pig every morning. Pulled them off and found uneven wear and glazing on the inner pad. Has anyone else had those premium pads fail way earlier than promised?
For about two years I just tightened my brake caliper brackets by feel and thought they were fine. Last week my front passenger side started a low growl on right turns and I found two bolts backed out about a half turn. Anyone else learn the hard way that hand tight isn't enough for caliper hardware?
Last week was wild. Tuesday started with my neighbor's minivan, front pads were down to the metal. Then my brother showed up with his truck, rear caliper was seized. By the time I finished his job, my coworker called in a panic about her sedan making that grinding sound. Three different vehicles, all with different brake designs, and I somehow got them all done before dark. My back still hurts three days later. Has anyone else had a day where every brake job you touched turned into a fight with rusted bolts and stuck rotors?
Thought I'd get a warning light or some grinding, but they just quietly made it to 100k. Anyone else have factory pads that refused to die?
My 2012 Civic started dragging the rear brakes last month and I figured it was a stuck caliper. Turned out the parking brake cable had rusted inside the sheath at the trailing arm and wouldnt fully release. Anyone else had a brake issue that turned into a multi day hunt for a simple part?
He said torque sticks are way more accurate for wheel installs. Tried it on my F-150 last month. No more wobbly rotors or pulling to the right. Anyone else ditch the torque wrench for lugs?
I was a diehard semi-metallic guy for years because they were cheap and grabbed hard, but after swapping to ceramics on my daily driver in Phoenix, the lack of dust and rotor wear made me a convert has anyone else seen that kind of difference in real world driving?