I spent $700 on a new cellular dialer last spring thinking I had to ditch phone lines for good. But my area still has solid copper POTS lines and I only lost signal one time in three years. The cellular unit drops connection twice a month and I have to drive out to reset it. Anyone else stick with old phone lines and save the cash?
Bought a DSC PC1616 off some guy on Craigslist for a side job. Looked legit in the photos but when I opened it up the board had this weird soldering job. Tried to power it up and nothing happened, no lights no nothing. Lost $200 and now I'm driving 45 minutes to the supply house to get a real one. Anyone else get burned by fake gear online?
I was trying to save a few bucks and grabbed a used DSC PC1832 off eBay for 30 bucks... looked fine in the pictures. Got it installed at a client's house in Cleveland and the thing started throwing false alarms every night at 2am. Had to rip it out and replace it with a new one from the supply house for 120 bucks, plus the extra labor. Anyone else get burned trying to go cheap on used equipment?
Finished a panel swap at a house in Arlington in under 4 hours yesterday. No unexpected wiring mess, no callbacks, client even tipped $40. Anyone else have those rare days where nothing fights back?
I bought a 4-pack of those no-name wireless door sensors for $80 last month. Figured they'd be fine for a side job at my buddy's garage. Took me about 6 hours to get them all paired and mounted, but by day 3, two of them were just dropping off the network randomly. Had to go back and rip them all out. Has anyone else had better luck with any budget brands or is it basically just name brands that work?
I was trouble shooting a Vista 20p at a house in Austin for almost 3 hours, checking every zone and the battery, before I finally thought to test the transformer output. The thing was giving 12V AC but dropping to 5V the second any load hit it, which made the panel look completely dead even though it had power. Anyone else ever chase a ghost problem for way too long because of something stupid simple?
Was troubleshooting a false alarm loop on a DSC system last Tuesday. Checked the panel firmware and it was from 2019. Surprised me how many installers just never update after initial setup. How often do you guys check firmware on older installs?
Last Thursday in a old house in Austin I ran a new wire through the attic and didn't use silicone around the hole, and a raccoon chewed through it at 2am causing a false alarm that had the customer calling me furious the next morning has anyone else had an animal cause a short on a zone after a simple install?
I used to only use recessed door contacts because I thought the magnetic surface mounts were for lazy installs. Then I had a job at an apartment complex in Austin where the doors had steel frames and zero room to drill. Slapped one on as a test and it's been solid for 8 months now with zero false alarms. Has anyone else found a situation where you had to switch your go-to part?
Used to spend 20 minutes per panel carefully tightening screw terminals until a senior guy showed me how much cleaner IDC connectors work back in 2019. Has anyone else switched their main panel wiring method and seen a big time savings?
Spent 3 hours trying to get a Ubiquiti wireless bridge to connect two buildings for an alarm panel, only to realize there was an old unused conduit running exactly between them. Has anyone else spent way too long on the fancy solution before seeing the obvious one?
I keep seeing guys throw motion detectors in corners without thinking about the heat register or that big fish tank. Spent 3 hours last week fixing false alarms from a job where they mounted a PIR right above a baseboard heater. What's your take on positioning vs hardware quality?
I was doing a job last week at a school in Phoenix, and those drop ceiling tiles were driving me nuts. Kept having to pull them down to run wire and they never sat flush after. A buddy told me to use a magnetic fishing tool to route the wire above the grid before dropping down at the sensor spot. Worked like a charm, saved me about 2 hours on a 12 sensor install. Anyone else got a ceiling trick that beats the usual headache?
Used to spend 30 minutes per residential job walking around poking sensors with a magnet to verify each zone. Then a coworker in Dallas showed me the zone bypass trick on the panel itself. Now I test everything from the keypad in under 5 minutes. Anyone else learn a simple shortcut way later than they should have?
I always ran my alarm wires tight along the baseboards until a house fire inspection flagged it. Turns out slack loops behind the panel are code in my county to prevent stress breaks. Has anyone else missed a local code like this?
I was at a HOA meeting last Tuesday in my neighborhood and someone mentioned their alarm system kept going off at 2 AM for no reason. Turned out the neighbor's new wireless security camera was on the same frequency band. Made me think about how we need to check for signal overlap more before we install wireless systems. Has anyone else run into this kind of frequency clash with residential installs?
I was installing a panel in a basement near Akron last Tuesday and the customer's old battery was showing 12.4 volts, but under load it dropped to 9 volts and the system kept false alarming. Has anyone else had a battery test pass static but fail hard on the load test?
I was digging through some crime data from the DOJ last week and saw that 60% of burglaries happen between 10am and 3pm. That surprised me because everyone thinks about night time break-ins. On one hand, most of my customers want motion lights and cameras aimed at dark hours. But on the other hand, maybe we should be pushing daytime sensor setups harder. Most people are at work then too, so the house is empty. What do you guys think - are we focusing too much on nighttime protection and missing the bigger window?
Two sides to this. Some guys swear by the cheap LTE dialers and say they work fine for residential. I put one in a house in Dallas and it dropped signal during a storm, alarm never reported. Client was pissed. Worth the extra cash or just a fluke with that one unit? Anyone else gamble on the cheaper cellular gear?
I was down in a 120 degree crawlspace wiring up a 16 zone expander for a new build. About 40 minutes in, the unit stopped accepting any new sensors and started throwing random trouble signals. Checked the power supply first, then realized the board had a cracked solder joint near the transformer. Swapped the whole unit with a spare I had in the truck and finished the job. That was a brutal 3 hour lesson in checking hardware before you start running wire. Has anyone else had a zone expander fail like that on a fresh install?
A senior installer from Dallas told me last month that wireless panels are the future for residential, but I just had to rip out a full Honeywell Lyric system because the homeowner's new metal roof killed the signal. On the other hand, I've spent three days running wires through a finished basement before that took forever. Which route do you guys lean for new construction where the drywall isn't up yet?
I had to choose between a wired Vista and a wireless Qolsys for a 3,000 square foot house in the country. Went with the wireless because the attic was full of blown insulation and crawling through it would have taken all day. Has anyone dealt with signal range issues on those bigger properties?
I took a shortcut last week on a job in Austin. Old house had a 30 year old 16V transformer still running from the 90s. I hooked up a new Vista 20P without swapping it out and the panel died after 2 hours. Learned the hard way that old transformers can spike voltage when they get loaded fresh. Anyone else have a panel die from an overlooked power supply?
So I had this job in a 1920s house near Seattle where the basement wall was always a little musty. I put some 1 inch foam board behind the alarm panel to try and keep moisture off the back of it. Worked okay for about 6 weeks, then I came back and the foam had this weird black mold growing right where it touched the concrete. Learned that foam traps moisture against the wall instead of letting it air out. Any of you guys dealt with mold behind a panel in a damp spot?
Had a day last July where I installed three panels in an attic near Phoenix. Outside temp was 108, attic was probably 140. Used my regular adhesive like always. Next week the customer called saying the panels were hanging loose. Went back and all three had the glue literally dripping down the wall. Had to redo the whole job with high-temp rated adhesive. Cost me an extra 4 hours and $60 in materials. Anyone else run into adhesive failure in crazy heat?