Why did nobody tell me to stop brushing relaxers straight down the hair shaft
For 6 years I applied every relaxer by pulling the comb straight down from root to tip, until a stylist in Atlanta showed me the back of her client's head where that same motion had thinned the ends to nothing. Now I smooth each section with the comb angled slightly off the scalp and only rake through once at the very end, which added about 4 minutes per service but cut my mid-shaft breakage complaints way down. Does anyone here still rake all the way through on purpose for a specific hair type, or is that just an old habit we should all drop?
Raking all the way through is not the devil here, the tension and the overlap are. If you pull smooth and slow with the right amount of product, going root to tip is the only way to get the new growth and the ends on the same clock so the whole strand processes even. Angling off the scalp and stopping short is how people end up with puffy roots and under processed ends that break later anyway because the line of demarcation is still there. Thinned ends from raking usually mean the comb was yanking through tangles or the relaxer sat too long on hair that was already weak, not that the downward motion itself is bad. A fine toothed comb pulled flat through a well based section is fine, a wide tooth yanked through dry tangled ends is what kills people. Dropping the rake for everybody is throwing out a tool because some folks used it wrong.