Before You Begin Assembling
|0. Before You Begin Assembling||4. Gantry Assembly||8. Bottom/Middle/Gantry Assembly|
|1. Sub Assembly 1||5. Top Frame Assembly||9. Heated Bed Assembly|
|2. Sub Assembly 2||6. Bottom Frame Assembly||10. Completing Frame Assembly|
|3. Extruder Assembly||7. Middle Frame Assembly||11. Wiring/Cable Management|
General notes about the kit
- All parts are listed individually, but it looks like a couple of the bags they come in are also listed. Those in question:
- 1038 contains 1036 and 1037
- 1050 contains 1051, 1061-64, and 1068
- Also, it looks like there is only one of the 1020 support bar, but there are two smaller bars in there.
- The #zrod parts are 1075-77. [Z-Rod upgrade (only?)]
- At first I thought they were missing, but (for me at least), 1076 and 1077 are already attached to the Z motor (1684AL). It's a little confusing, because the picture of the motor shows the rod already attached.
- If you have the upgrade, it doesn't look like you need 1075 (Z-Couplers).
- Notes on the location of parts as packed in the box
- There should be eight smooth rods of three lengths in your kit
- For the 10x10 (regular), there are two 17 1/8" (435mm) X rods, two 16 5/8" (423mm) Y rods, and four 13 1/4" (338mm) Z rods. (Sizes are approximate, and up to 1/4" shorter shouldn't be a problem.)
User Reported Problems
The following are issues that have been reported by members of the RigidBot Google+ community. We do not know how common or isolated these issues are, but they are recorded here to help you look out for them.
- Leaking extruder. Reported by Katherine Campbell also with photos] [Reported by John Tran] [Reported by B Malott] [Reported by Jerry Fountain] [Reported by John S] ... and many others.
- Board rework issues. open a support ticket. [Mis-wiring reported by Dennis Brown] [Trim potentiometer completely fell off reported by Arland Woodham and Dan J]
- Tight bearings. Reported by Stephen J. Bush] [Reported by Braden Steel] [Reported by Dennis Brown]
- Ribbon cable failure. anchor clip, pulling on the ribbon flat can separate the connector housing. Once inserted into the main board within the enclosure, there is no way to remove the cable without pulling on the cable flat. Be very careful removing these cables. If the connector separates it should be possible to reassemble it, but you may want to choose a new location on the cable rather than reusing the existing piercings. See also: Replace Ribbon Cables for a shopping list of parts to make your own replacement cables. [Reported by Dennis Brown] [Reported by Michael DiFilippo] [Reported by Dan J] [by Katherine Campbell] [Reported by mrlamborginiguy]
- Frame support #2017 incorrectly machined. [Reported by Dennis Brown - had to drill one rod connector hole] [Reported by Doh Tran - had to drill all 8 screw holes and both rod connector holes]
- Missing the power cord for the power supply. Open a ticket with IAP to have them send a replacement. Or if you would like to source your own, it is a IEC 60320 C5 cloverleaf plug on the power supply side, and your local standard on the mains side. [Reported by Adan Gallegos] [Reported by Steve Undy] [Reported by Ruwan Janapriya
- Surface rust. Several users have mentioned seeing rust inside steel supports. The general consensus is this may be caused by cutting fluids during manufacture or incomplete powder coating on the inside of the square tubing, and should not pose any risk to function or longevity. [Reported by Corey Cougle] [Reported by Braden Steel] [Reported by Richard Goodwin]
- Missing 1 or 2 #1032 screws. Not a structural concern, but seemingly common.
- Bulging plastic side panels. Reported by Alexander H]
- Y Axis Smooth Rods Too Long Several with the regular RigidBot have reported having four X-Axis length (17 1/8" 434.97mm) rods, instead of two X-Axis length and two Y-Axis length (16 3/4" 425.45mm). Cutting the rods down to the appropriate size with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel has worked. The cut is not critical, and may be done by eye due to the rod holders used on the RigidBot.
- Scratched heated bed plate, apparently causing it to not function at all. [Reported by Katherine Campbell]
- Power supply failed when plugged in. [Reported by Brian Antonelli]
- Thermistor failed after several prints leading to M999 error. [Reported by Katherine Campbell]
- Missing shoulder screw in the head kit (1110) [Reported by Richard Goodwin]
- Missing extruder cable [Reported by John S]
- Limit switch dead on arrival [Reported by John S]
- Main board has incorrect firmware for the size of the machine, resulting in incorrect boundaries being enforced. This can be seen by homing the machine, moving to the extreme other end of motion using the jog function of the LCD or Pronterface, and issuing the M114 command to return the current X, Y position. Be aware that a Big main board on a Regular machine will allow the jog function to crash the axes, so proceed with care near the end of the motion. The RigidBot Regular should stop at exactly (254, 254), the RigidBot Big should stop at (300, 400) but any position beyond (254, 254) demonstrates it is Big firmware. It can be corrected by uncommenting or commenting-out the "#define RIGIDBOT_BIG" declaration in the firmware source code, recompiling, and reflashing, or you can open a ticket with Invent-a-Part to send you precompiled firmware to flash. [Reported by Katherine Campbell]